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Anonymous surfer in south-west of France. Photo by C. Naslain, 2016.
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- i dont know why people trip off the localism at hazards. the fools that alot of ppl are afraid of out there are quite possibly the biggest pussies ive ever seen. when i surfed there for a year i always got respect and if it didnt go down like that and i was harassed i woudlve taken a bat to their car in front of them beat em with the bat and broke their boards. dont take that localism shit, most of the time its pussies trying to hard up to protect their spot. if u think this is localized try growing up at the lane. ive dropped in on pros there countless times and have been screamed at, but i get down violently ten times over what the situations called for. thats how u get respect i sugggest manning up and scare some people if youre that much of a bitch to trip off locals at a surf spot.
what a bunch or crap - i have surfed hazards since i was 14 years old, im now 35. there are a few jerks out there, but screw them. the only one i can think of that would try to fight about it was a dick head named whitey. real jerk. but if you want to try this place all you have to do is go down a little bit from the reef, its called cables. the wave is just as good. winter gets huge and you dont have to worry about the reef or jerks that think they own shit. tell them that too. Fuck you, you dont own this shit. I have had to say that to whitey about 9 years ago. i have not seen him there in some time. also there are reef sharks, i have been 20 feet from some pretty good size ones. so be ready for a deep dark kinda area, its not like the rock at all. thats were i surf now, because duck diving a 15 foot wall of white wash is not so fun any more. so remember to hell with the jerks that think they own shit, just stand up to them and they will respect you, or just go to the rock and kick back like i do.
Right - It really is an intense wave. Fast & heavy. The left is a little easier, but it will also hold you under for a long-time. Cold water too. Prepare to have you ass-kicked. Good luck.
go somewhere else - If you didn't grow up surfing here, you're probably going to be way out of your league. This place gets GIANT and HEAVY, breaks over dry reef and the peak is super competitive. If you're expecting to catch it smaller, remember Montana de Oro is one of the sharkiest places on earth (Great Whites) and it will probably be foggy, overcast and definitely freezing cold. The lefts can frequently be unsurfable from kelp. Can't say you weren't warned.
It is not that hard to get along - Just show a little bit of respect.
Camera"thing": Think of it more as a "Guideline" than a "Rule"
The camera thing is that:
1:Published digital photos just take on a life of their own.
2:How many photos do you NEED of yourself, really now?
3: "Leaving the camera behind" is a small sacrifice to make, that we all have made, to help keep the crowds as reasonable as possible.
4:Why not just enjoy the surf? Be part of the solution, and not part of the problem (ie. why contribute to more overcrowding?). The locals here (whoever that is) will encourage you to come and enjoy the beach, the surf, the trees. And it would be cool if you too helped clean up the trails, and drive safe on the road, and spent some money to help the local shop owners, in the town.
5: Why not just help out, and make this contribution? Get on board, with helping keeping a special place for the next generation of rippers?
Lets try to resist the temptation to exploit for our own personal ego, or gain.
6: Recommendation: just go out and have a good time. Surf the peaks, hike the peaks, bike the peaks, and be glad you have a nice (uncrowded) place such as this "special place" to enjoy with your family and friends.
Brianless local - Orderly at atascadero state hospital, maybe we are brainless by choice and you are to frightened to push it over the edge and splat your face in the barnacles like the last guy or you don't want a missing nose like the last guy who tried to claim it, the kook pressed charges, and get this the guy that brought him told the D.A. under oath "I toll him not to start any trouble in the water on the way to the beach", the Judge asked Vanna Caraza if the guy hit skinny, my little buddie Vanna told the whole truth and nothing but the truth, and after a full blown trial and tearing off a full blown nose right off a face, he was acquitted by self defense rules, kinda seems like it's not worth it losing your nose and all, good thing they found it and sow-wed it right back on, no harm no fowl, it does look a little like the old guy,Whitey but it's a lot fatter because of all the stitches, true story! And to call surfers brainless is a personal attack, your post should have been deleted like half of mine!
Local Orderly - Sad to hear trouble with brainless locals
the mask - Moderator you write this and nobody else blogs, great,, come up and surf,,, right,,,,you write,"i think fishy comment has hit the nail on the head."
Now can I have some fun?
hmmm - i think fishy comment has hit the nail on the head.
Lewdog - to here I come guy, bring gifts, and beer, and your chick to watch your pack, change at the car and become an instant outcast, bring food, beef, jerky, or beef will happen if you burn me I'll bite you, without teeth, I can't see just like my buddy the mask so doooo paddle into the pit or don't come back, because I ran over your foot and now you can't walk, the mask grabbed my nose lifted it up and down I went, gotta love him though everybody else does!
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