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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.

Atlas de spots de surf fait par des surfeurs pour les surfeurs
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 Florencia Bay

Canada, West Coast

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Commentaires

De Anonymous , 02-01-2010

Florenci,, My Goddess - Out over the darkness it wavers and hovers,
Out into the glooms it swings and batters,
Out into the wind and the rain and the vast,
Out into the pit of a great black world,
Where fogs are at battle, sky-driven, sea-blown,
Glories of chance and hazards of death
On its eager and palpitant waves.
Out into the deep of the great dark world,
Beyond the long borders where foam and drift
Of the thundering waves are lost and gone
On the tides that plunger and rear and crumble.

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