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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.

Atlas de spots de surf fait par des surfeurs pour les surfeurs
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De Commander Sgoodle , 30-10-2003

No localism - The only local problem you've have in Bali is that if you bring your pet, the people may eat it.....principly Siomese cats and poodles and rats.

De , 30-10-2003

Conflicting stories about Indo localism? - I'm curious about the localism scene in Indonesia? Does it exist? Is it bad? I've heard different things. I always imagined Indo to be like Costa Rica but in Asia, cool and friendly, but probably not so?

De anonymous , 26-10-2003

We know the surf in good, but how about the pussy? - Is the pussy better than in Costa Rica? I know it must be cheaper.

Fuck it I'm going.

De , 23-10-2003

what about bali wether from dec. to mar.? - hi guys i'm planing to get in bali in that period,could you tell me if the situation is really bad or i can get waves and sunshines?thanks a lot...

De anonymous , 17-10-2003

Bali in January??? - I'm going to the philippines in january for work and i'm thinking of jumping over to bali to try to get some waves. I spent 2 months there years ago in june and july and scored tons of waves. The question is how are the waves in january? Are they consistent? Is there lots of winds? Please any info would be appreciated and the more the better. I'm very familiar with the island so feel free to leave details.

De anonymous , 24-09-2003

Boat trips Doggy the Man - I just come from Bali where I stayed appr. 5 weeks. This is an info message to warn you from boat trips booked through Pugsley's and/or Doggy the Man. Everybody who booked over these guys will be able to confirm u some of the things listed hereinafter: on our boattrip one engine broke twice, so long delays and waiting; the food was really really disgusting, when there was food!! only two meals a day, in the morning always toast bred and at night some dry rice; we had fish one time and chicken one time: no proteins. one night no gaz for the cooking, we had to leave Sumbawa to get new gaz; one day no more water and no more bears after 4 days.
These are just a few examples of the nightmare of that terrible boat that was chartered through Pugsley's and Doggy The Man.

De anonymous , 27-08-2003

Bali Bound... - Yo what up, Fooooooooooools. I'm coming to rock the party all night long for some jungle juice maddness and dreamland bazzas! boing!

De , 16-08-2003

Bali surf in jan feb - Hi i want to go surfing in jan and feb, Can someone who knows please write me how the surf is in bali in thath time. If it´s constant waves and more details. I don´t need big waves 3-5 ft is perfect...

thanks :) // fich 6´4

De anonymous , 15-08-2003

crowds? - i keep hering thwt the crowds in gali are pretty bad. i learned to surf in aus at bondi beach and up the east coast to the gold coast. the breaks were pretty crowded but it was still possible to catch a good amount of waves. when people say that bali is crowded how does it compare to sydney and the gold cost? please reply, thanks.

De Zigz , 09-08-2003

Hey George, seen Stanley lately? - Yeah, after the bomb went off a month later it was uncrowded in november, and it didn't rain enough. I only had one buddy to surf with and he was from Margaret river. We made the HUGE HUGE mistake of going surfing the morning of Galungan. There was nobody on the beach, no boats out to the reef, no surfers anywhere.. perfect day,huh?.. and just this big slick going out to sea at Hyatt Reef, that I thought was oil.
Me and Andrew decided to paddle out to Hyatt cuz there was a new swell booming out on the reef. [It only looked 6 to 8, from that distance] Well we paddled and got separated cuz the rip was just insane doing the out to sea thing, and as I tried to paddle away from the slick, the current would have none of that and took me to the center of it. Guess what? It wasn't oil- it was blood! I guess they had slaughtered all the ritualistic animals in the lagoon and there was about 100 yards of solid,nasty,chunks and particles,blood as thick as gravy.
Now what would be YOUR first thought? Yep,...mine too. At that point it was useless cuz the rip was so powerful thru the reef pass that turning around and paddling in was not an option.
I looked for my friend and saw him out in the impact zone just getting cannoned by huge walls of whitwater. andd another surprize, it wasn't 6-8 ft. It was more like 20 foot faces with bigger sets. WAAHOOOPS BUNKIE !!!
I tried to paddle towards the takeoff spot on my 7'6" but you would have needed a 10'0" Brewer Hanelei gun to try and control your destiny at that point. It was out of control and my buddy Andrew paddled by at one point after paddling just to stay out danger and yelled " I creased me board mate, if anather one hats me I'm gunna dah out heah!"
Yea, at that point he yelled what are we gonna do? and I knew we had bit the big one. There were no boats, we were sitting 2 kilometers out in the ocean dodging channel close-out sets and the current was trying to drive us over towards the dry reef part of the wave. We were trying to take off on anything that would drive us in over the reef but no go, it was just too damn big for the boards we had.
I yelled to Andrew that the only way we were going to get in was to paddle across the channel and try to get washed in across the reef, and from there we could make the paddle to the island across the lagoon.
Not enough space to tell the whole story at this point, but I lost Andrew again, paddled against the current for ANOTHER 45 minutes, had a tiger shark come straight up out of the channel and pop his or her head up and take a look at me in the middle of all that blood again, I shouted "YOU"RE THE LEAST OF MY WORRIES NOW!!!" and resumed trying to paddle back to the Isle of Bali from whence I had departed.
When I made it back to the sand it was a 2 hour ordeal, and I stood up on the shore, took off my leash, and swore I would never surf again. I went looking for Andrew and when I found him, our eyes met, but no words were said. It was a given that we had just escaped a really bad situation.
So yeah, George, there's plenty of action on Bali in November, and you will find me sitting on the cliff above Newbreak, wondering why my 35 year EXCELLENT surfing career couldn't have ended on a happier note.
By the way, somehere back in the archives there is a note that Hyatt Reef was Rabbits favorite wave. He might have the answer as to how to get out of that predicament I found myself in, that lonely spiritually bankrupt Galungan day off the coast somewhere of Bali in November. Other than that the water sure was a wierd blue at six in the morning.

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