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Saturday December 17 2016 03:45:17 PM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: 1:15 min
Surfboard ridden: 8'2"
Weather and water temp: Air : 13°C. Water : 13°C
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
With Dinoso and Slybtz. When I arrived, the sea was ugly. But it was midtide. I took my big gun for the first time.Heavy, 8'2". I had a problem with my FCS scew and my fins weren't well fixed.
Waves were solid. S-O-L-I-D. I got only 4 waves but that was huge.
1st wave : my first wave with the gun. A ledgey right, it's strange to take off on a big gun. Long descent. Decent waves but nothing really good.
2nd wave : Big left (2.5m+) I took off and I saw the tube so I took immediately a high line. My speed was Mach2. The lip was over my Head. Heavy. It was long to paddle back.
3rd wave: Left (2.5m+), a local dropped on me but I resisted. The was a big long wall with a big white splah at the end...
4 wave: a big right (3m?), I took this long big walls !!!!
Created: Sunday December 18 2016 02:40:10 PM
Modified: Sunday December 18 2016 02:40:10 PM