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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Photo de Anonymous, 27-04-2005
Commentaire : Barge left
Another barge left in the 70s. I shot a lot of photos like these from the deck of folks trailer. From the looks of the shadow on the cliff Iquote27d say it was early morning. Iquote27d usually sleep on the couch so that I could just peek out the window to see what was breaking and then grab my board and head out. Later in the morning, my dad would come out on the porch and blow the conch shell to tell me the waffles were ready. Sigh.
