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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.

Atlas de spots de surf fait par des surfeurs pour les surfeurs
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 Big Lefts

Japan, Shizuoka

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Notation (9)


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 Accès

It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

DistancePour un Week-end

ApprocheAccès direct (< 5 min)

Facile à trouver ?Difficile à trouver

Accès public ?Accès public

Accès spécialJe ne sais pas

 Caractéristiques du spot de surf

Qualité du spot

Quality des vaguesComplètement dingue

ExperiencePros ou Kamikaze...

FréquenceMarche rarement (5j/an)?????????????

Vague

TypeDigue / Jetée

DirectionGauche

FondGros cailloux

PuissanceCreuse, Rapide, Puissante, Slab

Longueur normale

Longueur max.Très Longue (300 à 500 m)

Marées, houle et vent

Direction de la houleSud-ouest

Direction du ventNord-est

Taille de la houleCommence à marcher à 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft et tient jusqu'à 5m / 16 ft et plus

Condition de maréeMi-marée et marée haute

Mouvement de maréeMarée montante

Plus de détails

Fréquentation semainePersonne

Fréquentation week-endQuelques surfeurs

Webcam 

Dangers

- Courants/Baïnes
- Rochers
- Constructions (bouées, digues etc..)
- Localisme

 Informations supplémentaires

Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

Atmosphère

Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

Général

Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

English (Traduisez ce texte en Français): Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

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 Commentaires

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De me , 22-08-2006

japan size - i been surfing japan the last year and nobody here knows how to measure a wave. they all think if its iver head high its 10 foot plus. The few who do hav the coast wired and think its great theres so many kooks because the "locals" dominate the good waves there are. funny thing is all the "local" breaks are river mouths and noone lives within 10km of them! Anyways theres sick waves in japan you gotta be polite, search the rivermouths and take everything you hear with a pinch of salt. When it is cranking, you wont hear about it!

De brad condron , 19-10-2005

- shit shit shit

De matthew mackenzie , 02-04-2005

chi chi men - read it bullas it says swell size not fucking wave size

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