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Trip: Acid trip?
Wednesday January 20 2010 06:08:29 PM
Date: from Jan 20, 2010 to Jan 20, 2010
Surf trip description:
Ode to "Orange Sunshine" or "Trainspotting on Waves".
"Look at me I'm Sandra Dee"
"Gidget" intro 1959 based on a true story.
Gidget part #2
Actually filmed at Secos (Leo Carillo Sate Beach) surfer is Micki Dora.
Note: Secos is not a beginner break!
Meet Da Cat
'The sun glinted across the water, a brilliant ray, like a yellow laser slicing through the gray matter and mist of heaven. "Hurry up! Wind's already screwing it up."
Jenna vigorously rubbed the stick of wax. "Done!" She looks over at her friend, who slowly draws straight lines, rail to rail, nose to tail. The striking blonde blows a stray lock out her eyes. "No Aeris, in circles. CIRCLES! Hurry will ya?" Her parental tone is caught by the other girl, her black hair tied in a tangled bun, with strands giving away the wind direction. But Aeris is lost, staring out at the victory at sea conditions. The dark green was stained with mud brown trails, and the foam was flecked with sea weed.
"Um, I think I'll just stay on the inside." Aeris mumbles, "Just go out!" Jenna shook her head, "No way on the inside! Just wait for a lull." Aeris stares down at her board, a 9 foot long coffee stained, with a sickle like curved arc for a single fin. Near the dirty milk white stains a third of the way down is the familiar Harbour triangle. "You know I can't duck this thing. And its coming too fast to turtle it." Aeris takes a deep breath, and smiles at the wax bumps. "See? Pure basecoat." Jhenna purses her lips, "No, pros put base then the appropriate temp wax coat. 2 layers." She picks up her surfboard, a curved, light, clean gray board, with sky blue wax dots.
A tearing sound rips in the thundering of the sea, as Jenna adjusts her ankle strap. "At least there are a few good ones peeling." Aeris swallows, tugging on her leash. "Let's go!" Into the pounding white water they go. The life guard's steely glint of his ice blue eyes flashes. He glances at the fit lady with sinewy arms riding shotgun, "This outta be fun". Ford Explorer stops to watch the thin lithe blonde leap into the white wash and paddle away, duck diving under the white water. Her friend, gets caught in wall of white water, and struggles forward, gripping the nose of her longboard, as it dips below.
Aeris stares at the walls of white water. "Huh . . . I knew it." She paddles through the choppy froth, and sits on her board. With a single move she slides to the tail as the board swings around like a giant Claymore blade wielded by stocky Highlander. She paddles, soft brown eyes staring back at the crashing green wall. But the foam comes to her and the white water rushes. Up and standing, her hands free themselves, and she rides barely angling. Aeris looks behind her, and Jenna is racing down a green face, with the light gray cloud blurring just behind her, as she hacks her arrowhead like board across the top, and rides down, then up, to chop the wave off again.
The lifeguards scan the crashing waves, laughing at the girl riding the wash. The wind dies down, and so subtle they barely feel it. Yet years of sun and ocean experience show on their tanned faces and minds. A rare lull. But Aeris is not calm. She explodes paddling, her mind racing, paddling lessons. Each arm dips down, open fingers cupping the water, hands rolling near the hips, a slight shoulder shrug to bring her arm out and sliding back in the green water. She races out, and rising wall of water stands up, like a frightened horse on it's hind legs. She scoots forward, and the nose and her body spears the green, and it neatly rolls through her. As if accepting her invitation, the burly green bouncer lets her cut into the VIP line.
Jenna snickers, "About time, kook." She lifts up a neoprene wrist and points at an imaginary watch. Aeris swallows the knot in her throat and feels it in her stomach. "It's crazy!" The few surfers rise up and down as swells cruise by. "Outside!!" Aeris paddles, everyone barely missing the crushing fall of the wave, but Aeris keeps going. Jenna laughs as she strokes too far out. She disappears as a green hill thunders, and Aeris awaits to see her board fly out, and leash stretch. But no, Jenna and the black haired boy split the peak, blonde going left, teen grom going right. Her head dips down the green wall, gone, and the sword tip of the surfboard blitzing through, and coming around, the tail snapping and back down. She sees the boy pumping and lashes around as he cuts back, and rounds off the exploding foam.
"Outside!" Aeris spins her board around at her brain's yell. But her eyes catch it. The tell tale peak on the rising green mountain. She winces, a left, and I wanted a right like Mike D's. But she turns and paddles in one motion. As the other surfers paddle away, out to sea, she realizes she made a mistake. But something inside tells her to go for it. The howling wind. It started up again?
Aeris feels the wave vibrating under her feet. Standing, she looks over her shoulder, and slides her front foot, opening it up along the stringer. She doesn't need to look, but knows the white wash explosion is just behind her. Aeris rides down, seconds racing by, and up ahead the wave face is crumbling. She straightens out, and then the white water explodes, tossing her up. But her feet are planted on the board. Instinctively she crouches, and lands in the foam, and her board shoots ahead. "Straight off Adolph." Aeris sighs. "But how did I get to my feet and ride it?"
The lifeguards nod in approval from behind the glare glass. The single ray of sun peeks out. Jenna's mouth drops. Aeris is hit by euphoria, "Oh my God!! That was sooo COOOL!!" As if God breathed life, into her she jumps off her board and stands in the knee high foam. Immense joy floods Aeris as she is flushed with cold, as a broken wave washes over her. Jhenna shakes her head. But her eyes replay it. Aeris screaming down the face, drawing a clean line, racing just ahead of the foam. Her back hand up in a stylish gesture, her front arm extended. Her stance like Bruce Lee's slightly crouched, but relaxed. Her head looking over her shoulder, soft round almond brown eyes calm. As if accepting the universe, no fear, no trouble. Not empty, like her gaze into victory at sea, earlier. Filled with calm, just like a swell before it breaks into a wave. The ease of a pelican gliding a few millimeters above the rolling corduroy line. As if she is meant to be.
Aeris' happiness is cut short. She narrowly misses hitting a middle aged man sliding past her with this clean, enamel white board. "Sorry!" She says. He stares at her, "Keep it up Gidget. There's hope for you yet." Aeris frowns, looking at him, in his trunks, bronze body torque as he is lost past the whitewall.
And the smile coming out of the white wash, like the old coffee board and her riding the explosion down. An old grizzled bearded man, a long time local, in a thinning wetsuit, "That's style." he motions at Aeris. "Your friend has soul." Jenna shrugs, "But she doesn't even shred." The hodad laughs, "You know what, girl, that's what Da Cat did to me. Laughed at me." His wirey shoulders roll and his head shakes, even chuckling as he strides into the foam and wash. The lifeguards laugh, "The old guy said she was like Miki Dora? What?"
Jenna comes by as Aeris puts her board down. "Nice wave. Old Man of the Sea said you had style, and he looked laughed at me! ME! I shredded that wave so hard I almost broke my steed!" Aeris shrugs, "It was awesome . . . " She explains her ride in full detail. "Ok well it was the set wave of the day. I'll give ya that. But you did nothing but trim." Jhenna smiles, caught up in her stoke.
Aeris asks her, "Who was that middle aged dude in the trunks only. It's cold but he was totally chill with it being frosty. An' no wetsuit." Jenna shrugs, "No one out there like that. No way anyone is trunking it. Lemme have what you're smoking, girl." Aeris feels a tingle up her spine. The middle aged trunks only man isn't out there, as she eyes the bobbing surfers on the swells. Her head jerks as she sees him ride down a green wall, "Oh he is styling!! On that right!!" Jenna jerks back as she sees Aeris' eyes follow the line. "Wave's empty kuk-head." The icicles bounce down her back, as Aeris watches him kick out, collect his board, and begin walking back to the beach. She pulls back as he comes closer, as he fades away, walking through her and she hears, "Keep at it Gidget. There's hope for you."
Aeris shivers, "Did you see him, he came up and . . ." Jhenna blinks at Aeris' eyes, quivering. "No really, I did." Jenna laughs, "Yeah sure, you just saw Da Cat." Jenna shakes her head. "Who is Da Cat? And why did I just mention that?" Aeris' gaze is lost, the memory of that wave blitzing her senses........."
Modified: Wednesday January 20 2010 06:08:29 PM