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Surf session counter: 4355
Friday January 31 2014 04:06:25 AM
Surf Trip: Borinquen ( 30 January 2014 - 03 February 2014)
Created: Wednesday October 14 2015 02:50:09 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 14 2015 02:50:09 AM
Sunday January 12 2014 09:00:00 AM
Today session was excellent. Small check at the cold sunrise. Tibok and the crew weren't still at the parking. I have discovered this :
No need to draw : it was just perfect : a long right was peeling around the sandban, 1.5m to 2m, 200m long. Fast but not too much, an easy paddle. I knew I needed to take my semi gun.
When I saw this, I have started to run back to the parking...
I meet the crew on the parkin. I told them just to avoid the check and to jump into their wetsuit. I discovered that I forgot my leash at home. f... . Hopedully Dahomey gave me one.Then I snaked everybody to be the first in the water : I ran to the beach and was alone at the peak. My first wave was a bomb : a 200m backside rush.
After we were around 20 surfers but there was a lot of waves.
After 2 hours, the wind changed and waves were deteriorated (but still good)
some of other surfers comments :
Das "De bien belles images en tête : une grosse bombe pour Yann (enfin je crois bien que c'était lui), le style appliqué de Occy sur une vague bien ronde,...y'a que Dahomey qui a été très décevant ... non j'déconne. "
Occy "Quelle incroyable matinée !!!
Created: Sunday January 12 2014 07:56:28 PM
Modified: Sunday January 12 2014 07:59:42 PM
Saturday January 11 2014 03:00:00 PM
The wind was worse than forecasts. Waves were here but bumpy and mushy. With ZItoune we had some fun with this : nothing special but just a good time with friends.
Created: Sunday January 12 2014 08:07:17 PM
Modified: Sunday January 12 2014 08:07:17 PM
Friday January 10 2014 03:00:00 PM
After the XXL Swell of Hercules (6 to 8m), all the sandbanks have shifted. And it was Christmas : no matter where you go, you will find a good sandbank.
The session started with Dahomey and Tibok : it was good but nothing unforgetable becaus the tide was too high. But after a while, waves became hollower and long : 150m of surf and more...
I got very good waves at the end of the session (2 small tubes, a very good left, 2 very long rights).
Tibok took the wave of the day : I just see the back of the wave and he started to shout inside the tube ! I could clearly hear him. And he was deep : there was echo because of the hollow sound !!!!
Waves of Lacanau but we had the same !
Created: Friday January 10 2014 09:05:51 PM
Modified: Friday January 10 2014 09:06:14 PM
Monday January 6 2014 11:00:00 AM
Created: Friday January 10 2014 03:23:22 PM
Modified: Friday January 10 2014 03:23:22 PM
Sunday January 5 2014 01:00:00 PM
Created: Friday January 10 2014 03:22:04 PM
Modified: Friday January 10 2014 03:22:04 PM
Sunday December 29 2013 11:00:00 AM
Created: Monday December 30 2013 09:24:51 AM
Modified: Monday December 30 2013 09:24:51 AM
Friday December 27 2013 03:00:00 PM
Created: Monday December 30 2013 09:23:25 AM
Modified: Monday December 30 2013 09:23:25 AM
Friday December 27 2013 02:30:00 PM
The swell was coming in. I decided to avoid the know spots on the north coast to avoid the crowd. I went to this semi-secret spot which rarely worked. And I was rewarded : a beautiful windy wave was there. I stayed in the water (9°C!) for 2h30mn. The first section was the most interesting (1,20m hollow) and it was mellow after. I was very happy to surf this spot with those waves.
The video : https://vimeo.com/82838285
Created: Saturday December 28 2013 05:25:16 PM
Modified: Saturday December 28 2013 05:47:59 PM
Thursday December 26 2013 03:00:00 PM
Created: Monday December 30 2013 09:22:16 AM
Modified: Monday December 30 2013 09:22:16 AM
Tuesday December 24 2013 11:30:00 AM
Just too small but enough to surf in a beautiful landscape.
a small video : https://vimeo.com/82675494
Created: Wednesday December 25 2013 04:31:18 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 25 2013 05:59:30 PM
Monday December 23 2013 11:30:00 AM
Near the Jetty during the tempest ! Only fun small waves
Created: Monday December 23 2013 02:28:55 PM
Modified: Monday December 23 2013 02:28:55 PM
Saturday December 14 2013 12:00:00 PM
With Dahomey and his buddy CHris , we hesitated to go to check the ocean : was the swell twisted by the wind ? Will the swell saturate the surf spot ? Finally,
we decided to leave ( well. . Was tried as Dahomey had forgotten his wetsuit and it took him to find a replacement ... ) .
Arrived on the Gurp around 12 pm , it's big but not yet saturated . Noone in the water and plenty of locals watching . The best thing is not to think too much and we went to the water in a semblance of channel . Bingo, we are behind the waves. ! I took one board 7'3" and it seemed like a 6'4 ". I immediately take 2 waves : it is strange because the take-off is engaged but doable. After the size doubled and took at least one third in size! at the end of wave 2 tubes waited for me but it was so big that I was too impressed to try them. Caught in the impact zone , I see CHris who took off late , the wave doubled behind him (go over 2.5m - 3m) and he escaped into the wall. It is hairy. ! Wave grows, adrenaline too . Dahomey get punished on a long take off. Then it's my turn : late take off , the nose straight into the wave and I'm atomized ( I hear my neck vertebrae crack ) . We managed to take a few waves and swell continued to grow . Water movements wer impressive.
A series swept us , it was probably a good 4m: Dahomey and I were in the impact zone . Silence. Me , I admit I was scared. After one three quarter we went out: the session seemed to last only 10 minutes because it was so intense!
Here are some pictures of average quality but representative :
hu, hollow isn't it ?
Created: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM
Wednesday December 11 2013 01:30:00 PM
Small and fun waves at a good sanbank. As the day before, you had to find the good sandbanl because of the long period swell. This time it was a right. Waves were 80cm to more than 1m.
Some longboarders, an angry english, a very bood backsider and a kid : a good summer session !
Created: Sunday December 15 2013 02:14:47 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:22:18 PM
Tuesday December 10 2013 02:00:00 PM
The swell was long and small. Waves were 80cm high. Only one sandbank worked but it was a lot of fun to surf ! I have done 2 tubes with one surfed inside (a 80cm wave only...)
Created: Tuesday December 10 2013 04:46:08 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:22:53 PM
Saturday December 7 2013 10:30:00 AM
The winter came early this year : low temperature since two weeks. It's the same weather than in february !
The swell was long : 12s and the sandbanks were hard to find. I went to surf with Zitoune. We started near the shore with fun waves then we went further to the north to surf outside banks (15min of paddle).
On the outside banks, I found powerful and fast right. I was at the entry of the tubes 2 times. I got also on big left (the only one). The tube was so big and large that I was afraid and preferred to fall.
A good session.
Created: Saturday December 7 2013 03:51:59 PM
Modified: Saturday December 7 2013 03:51:59 PM
Wednesday December 4 2013 06:38:44 AM
Created: Wednesday December 4 2013 06:41:24 AM
Modified: Wednesday December 4 2013 06:41:24 AM
Friday November 29 2013 11:00:00 AM
long swell, small waves, hight tide, no sandbank = bad session
Created: Friday November 29 2013 08:59:56 PM
Modified: Saturday December 7 2013 03:43:40 PM
Sunday November 17 2013 01:30:00 PM
It was cold, a little windy but I got fun waves.
Plus : bottom down the wave, better backside. better shoulder rotation
Minus : finish the bottom more vertically, be more compact at the bottom
Created: Sunday November 17 2013 08:28:27 PM
Modified: Sunday November 17 2013 08:28:27 PM
Saturday November 16 2013 12:00:00 PM
Windy session with powerful and tubular waves. Got few good ones. After one hour, the wind has turned and it became unsurfable. A lot of current.
Plus : better bottoms, came in the vertical part of the waves
Minus : had to work on the shoulder rotation
Created: Sunday November 17 2013 10:52:03 AM
Modified: Sunday November 17 2013 10:54:32 AM
Saturday November 9 2013 01:15:00 PM
Created: Sunday November 10 2013 10:17:50 AM
Modified: Sunday November 10 2013 10:17:50 AM
Saturday November 9 2013 10:00:00 AM
In the morning waves were less powerfull than the afternoon. Had to take off close to the south cliff to catch a ride but got some fairly long ones.
Harsh underground, be carefull when getting of your board.
With Ivan (goofybaba) and Peter.
Created: Sunday November 10 2013 11:34:26 AM
Modified: Monday November 11 2013 10:46:04 AM
Sunday November 3 2013 02:45:00 PM
Created: Monday November 4 2013 07:49:00 PM
Modified: Monday November 4 2013 07:49:00 PM
Sunday November 3 2013 12:00:00 AM
Created: Monday November 4 2013 03:42:26 AM
Modified: Monday November 4 2013 03:42:26 AM
Friday November 1 2013 04:30:00 PM
I just came back with a longer board to make easier the take off. On the 4 waves, only 3 were good but very good. The best one was the bomb (a small 2 m) : I just took off at the critical part of the wave, nearly fall, then did the bottom... It was hollow said the others !
a good rush
Created: Sunday November 3 2013 09:42:24 AM
Modified: Sunday November 3 2013 09:42:24 AM
Friday November 1 2013 08:30:00 AM
Yes ! We were onmy 8 surfers. Waves were rare but I got 6 of them... I was with Pierre who tried for the first time the spot and finish on rocks !
Plus : Good take off at the right time in front of the rocks,Not so bad bottom
Minus : it's not the good board for the spot, it needs a narrower boards. I need to lower for the bottom and finish to go more vertical at the end of the bottom. Be more active with legs
and the video : https://vimeo.com/78453430
Created: Sunday November 3 2013 09:39:34 AM
Modified: Sunday November 3 2013 09:39:34 AM
Tuesday October 29 2013 10:30:00 AM
This morning, it was a good surprise : waves were breaking at les roches blanches with only 2 surfers. After the madness of the last 2 days, it was good to surf with no pressure. The spot worked at hight tide. I felt several time on the boulders with no hurts...
I was very happy and a little tired...
la vidéo : https://vimeo.com/78084478
Created: Tuesday October 29 2013 05:00:46 PM
Modified: Tuesday October 29 2013 05:31:31 PM
Monday October 28 2013 07:30:00 AM
I came very early in the water : before the sunrise. But locals were there too. As waves were rare and the locals were good (that's mean they took off literally on the rocks) and they protected each others for the take off, I couldn't caught any wave. Only 2 in one hour. Of course I can't blame locals as they ripped but I was just very frustrated... No a good session.
Created: Monday October 28 2013 04:20:17 PM
Modified: Monday October 28 2013 04:20:17 PM
Sunday October 27 2013 01:30:00 PM
No waves this morning then the swell came in at lunch. I have started to surf with 1m high waves then the swell increased up to 2m. Waves were powerful and very long. The only problem was the crowd : excellent local competitors, excellent locals, standup competitors from the world cup at la torche.... 50 surfers in the water ! So I was happy to surf at least 8 waves !
On one wave : I was at the enter of the tube and people were crying...
and the video : https://vimeo.com/77911272
Created: Sunday October 27 2013 05:07:42 PM
Modified: Monday October 28 2013 07:59:29 AM
Sunday October 27 2013 10:30:00 AM
I went to surf with my daughter. She just had a shorty !!! She took 4 long waves. Then I went to surf but waves were bad. A big swell is announced (6m) but i's not sure if it will succeed to go inside the bay...
Created: Sunday October 27 2013 11:18:22 AM
Modified: Sunday October 27 2013 11:18:22 AM
Friday October 25 2013 11:30:00 AM
After a surf with the kids (5...) I went in the water but the wind was crosshore and strong. Waves became bad. I just took few and prefered to go out. 30mn after, it became better. I was just at the wrong time :-(
Created: Sunday October 27 2013 11:14:18 AM
Modified: Thursday November 7 2013 09:39:55 AM
Friday October 18 2013 09:30:00 AM
As the day before, the swell was smaller than expected. I'am sure it was possible to surf in the south. Nethermind, waves were fun to surf ! I even got small tubes !!
I surfed with Tibok and Dahome... A good Session..
plus : attention on the backside
minus : don't take all the speed in trimline but go straight then bottom
Created: Sunday October 20 2013 05:29:43 PM
Modified: Sunday October 20 2013 05:30:22 PM
Thursday October 17 2013 02:00:00 PM
I went with Dahome, expecting a big swell. But it was smaller than announced. We stayed at Montalivet. the tide was a little to high but it was enough to surf.
After 2 hours, I had to stop to surf because of 2 big cramps at the same time !
Just after my exit, waves started to improve greatly.
Created: Sunday October 20 2013 10:30:15 AM
Modified: Sunday October 20 2013 05:30:37 PM
Wednesday October 16 2013 10:30:00 AM
Created: Thursday October 17 2013 09:11:17 AM
Modified: Sunday November 10 2013 10:19:09 AM
Saturday October 12 2013 10:35:10 AM
Surf Trip: Maroc light ( 10 October 2013 - 17 October 2013)
Created: Tuesday February 4 2014 10:37:34 AM
Modified: Tuesday February 4 2014 10:37:34 AM
Friday October 11 2013 05:30:00 PM
Created: Sunday October 13 2013 04:29:28 PM
Modified: Sunday October 13 2013 04:29:28 PM
Wednesday October 2 2013 02:00:00 PM
I went to Le Gurp with Dahomey but Luke Egan told us that it was crowded and the waves were not so big. We went to montalivet but waves seems nearly only close outs. I was at first in a bad mood : bad spot, bad waves, not in a good shape, fallen on all my first waves...
But as the session went on, I started to surf better :
- one big and long left with a large tube ! My best ride since 2 monthes
- one short punchy right with good top turns (see photos)
- one big bomb right : my second best wave after the left
So, this crappy session turned fnally in a very good session.
Created: Wednesday October 2 2013 08:05:27 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 2 2013 08:23:21 PM
Saturday September 28 2013 08:30:00 AM
Bon, suite à la session du 23/09 et au mail enflammé de Dahomey, Tibok a
décidé de clotûrer cette semaine en mode [KEPA-ACERO-SEARCH-ON].
Concrètement, cela revient à s'éloigner à vélo des spots surpeuplés
d'engins flottants divers et variés pour se retrouver sur des pics
parfaits et déserts (bon, çà, c'est l'objectif...).
Nous nous retrouvons sur le parking du super pic de la semaine dernière sous la pluie à 8 heure. En effet, nous avions détecté les jours précédents un lointain lointain pic désert qui semble marcher. Nous enfourchons les vélos et zou, nous nous éloignons de la civilisation à grands coups de pédales. Nous papotons, pédalons, voyons un chevreuil traverser la piste cyclable. A nous les pics déserts ! les tubes de folie ! Je rêve déjà des photos que nous allons mettre sur le forum de surfrepotes faisant baver les surfrepoteurs !
Après cette virée à vélo, nous croisons un coupe feu. Hop, pied à terre... et nous voila à pousser les vélos dans un sable mou infâme. Nous les abandonnons bien vite pour finir à pied. Il nous faut bien 15 min, d'une marche pénible dans un sable mou...pour quasiment nous trouver à notre point de départ pile en face du super-pic-de-la-semaine-dernière-qu'on-voulait-éviter ! Enorme éclat de rire : bonjour les pieds nickelés à vélo. On a donc du rejoindre le prometteur super pic en se tapant 20 min supplémentaire dans le sable. Nous avons trouvé cela :
Mouais, vagues de 80cm grand max en droite assez rapide. Très clairement une session très moyenne mais, même après une semaine d'un surf parfait, c'était chouette de surfouiller dans de l'eau chaude, un paysage désert et quelques vagues sympas.
Created: Saturday September 28 2013 05:50:42 PM
Modified: Saturday September 28 2013 05:50:42 PM
Thursday September 26 2013 12:00:00 PM
Between two rendez-vous, at lunch, I went to have a short sessio : it was just PERFECT. 6 on a very good peak (right-left), 1.5m with opening face. I score a big hollow right and carve a wonderful left...
A short session but a good memories.
Not photos of carcans but from Lacanau and Hourtin the same day :
Created: Saturday September 28 2013 07:00:28 PM
Modified: Saturday September 28 2013 07:00:28 PM
Wednesday September 25 2013 08:00:00 AM
What a session ! With Tibok and Zitoune, we passed the dunes but the storm washer. It was onshore. Then waves started to become glassy.
I have snaked Zitoune who missed the bomb ! Only half of my waves were good, the others closed-out... But the good ones were really good ! I remember left waves (powerful, hollow, fast and tubular).
Created: Saturday September 28 2013 06:47:58 PM
Modified: Saturday September 28 2013 06:48:32 PM
Monday September 23 2013 02:30:00 PM
Whaou, It was a good aftrenoon of surf : 1.20m - 1.50m on the biggest. It wasn't very good at the very low tide as waves were a little to fast. But the tide sterted to get higher it turned into a waves machine. Nearly every waves barreled. On my 43 waves, only 30% were very good but very very good !
I got barreled 5 times backside,
It was a little crowded but everyone stayed cool and we ahev talked a lot : a very good afternoon !
Created: Monday September 23 2013 07:56:38 PM
Modified: Monday September 23 2013 07:56:38 PM
Sunday September 22 2013 08:30:00 AM
I went to surf with Loig and Matthieu. The swell was so long that nearly all the waves were close outs. But it was possible to surf. Nothing special but a good moment in the water. I felt the cold at the end of the session : autumn is coming...
Created: Sunday September 22 2013 07:09:18 PM
Modified: Sunday September 22 2013 07:09:45 PM
Saturday September 21 2013 09:15:00 AM
I have taken the lod german road to the spot. The tide was important : 104 ! Even if the brak was not perfect, I was alone. So I picked only the good ones. On 27 surfed waves, half were good.
I took 2 left tubes and a tube on a right.
- Be slow at the take of to make the tube
- Stay in the hollowest part of the wave to get tubed
- same points for the backside tube
Point to enhance :
- rotate the shoulders first
- go straight down THEN turn
Created: Saturday September 21 2013 03:43:29 PM
Modified: Saturday September 21 2013 03:43:29 PM
Wednesday September 18 2013 10:30:00 AM
Created: Thursday September 19 2013 09:57:46 AM
Modified: Thursday September 19 2013 09:57:46 AM
Tuesday September 10 2013 12:15:00 PM
Created: Wednesday September 11 2013 03:44:19 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 11 2013 03:44:19 PM
Monday September 9 2013 12:45:00 PM
Created: Wednesday September 11 2013 03:41:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 11 2013 03:41:59 PM
Sunday September 8 2013 04:15:00 PM
We went with zitoune and Mitch to Les estagnots. Waves were actually not so bad but it was hard to surf as it was crowded (young guns, surf school, old guns, standup and so on)
Not a good session
Created: Thursday September 12 2013 07:55:23 PM
Modified: Thursday September 12 2013 07:55:23 PM
Sunday September 8 2013 10:30:00 AM
On the rod to surf with Mitch, I missed him. I went to La Gravière : perfect 1.20 - 1.5m hollow tubes exploded on the sandbank. It was crowded and competiting.
I decided to walk up north and arrived at les Culs Nuls. The wave was less good but there was only 8 surfers. It was enough for me : fast hollow tubes...
I caught powerful waves, I didn't manage to go out tubes but I got covered several times with big tubes !
Created: Thursday September 12 2013 07:51:01 PM
Modified: Thursday September 12 2013 07:51:01 PM
Saturday September 7 2013 07:45:00 AM
Woke up early and I went before dark at Guethary : no waves... I realized that I made a mistake on my forecast. So I went to Lafitenia : argh, the tide was to high!
Then I went to bidart my last choice because I thought that this spot is ordinary one. AND the good surprise : 1.5m perfect waves were cranking ! I ran and swim to the peak.
My first, my best : 2 surfers missed a perfect 1.5m wall, I just paddled and took off. The surf was long long long with clear turns ! Just a dream.
Created: Thursday September 12 2013 07:44:10 PM
Modified: Thursday September 12 2013 07:51:17 PM
Tuesday September 3 2013 09:15:00 AM
It was the beginning of school : what a good news : no kids in the water :-)
Waves were pretty good. I was not the only surfer and we were 20. But I got my waves with good turns.
A classic session.
Created: Thursday September 12 2013 07:38:25 PM
Modified: Thursday September 12 2013 07:38:25 PM