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Tuesday January 27 2009 07:08:24 AM
Surf spot: Punch Reef, Panama
Session's Rate: 
Nb waves ridden: shitloads
Length of the surf session: 6 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0 goto wrv
Fins: m5
Weather and water temp: perfect
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
so i got up, walked out to where i catch the boat, got a boat, arranged a pickup time, and jumped off into an empty reef with no affects due to tide. head high swell, and i couldnt be more thrilled. 3 weeks later i was still suffering from the severe sunburn I recieved these couple of days, but nyway, I jump off the boat almost right into a wave. I surf for the following 5 or 6 hours, Im not really sure. but long story short, the boat never came back, no one ever showed up, and the tide never turned, so essentially it was sick, epic, out of control,.....until it was time to go home. fortunatly there was land close by, but we were seperated by an urchin encrusted reef. when I couldnt stand to paddle anymore I decided to give the reef a go, nd try my luck on land. caught a wave in, rode the whitewash on my belly through the shallows. the water receeds for the oncomming wave, and im left high and dry on this reef. the wave breaks, and im tossing around in a few inches of water. I ride that backwash back out past the reef and curse to myself for trying that. but im still faced with the challenge of getting back. i ride acouple more waves, and give it another go. this time i find the pass, and safley paddle all the way to the beach. I jumped on the back of a dumptruck, made small talk with the workers in back and got off when they took me as far as they could. I walked the rest of the way. ended up with some serious gouges in the bottom of my board, but nothing I couldnt handle fixing.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday January 27 2009 07:17:30 AM
Modified: Tuesday January 27 2009 07:17:30 AM
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