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Friday August 22 2008 02:09:57 AM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 3 min
Surfboard ridden: Super Fish
Weather and water temp: 70F/64F
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
- One peak
4:30 AM the alarm goes off ... knock it off the nightstand... it goes off again, pick it up and drop it on the floor, finally turn it off but Destruct'o my daughters 15 pound Himalayan is now awake, jumps up on the bed and sticks its paw in my ear ... wake up! OK feed the cat, get ready, open the door to put my JL Super Fish outside ... and the cat bolts ... now I have to chase her down. Finally load the Solara.
Head down 7th Street, CD blasting a Marty Robbins cowboy lament, to the 405 Freeway south on-ramp, by Cal State University, Long Beach but first have to find a gas station that's open ... good 7-11 ... get gas and a cup of coffee ... big mistake.
No traffic, keeping it under 80 MPH watching for CHP. Zip- Irvine, Zip-Mission-Viejo, Zip-Laguna Niguel, Zip- San Juan Capistrano, Zip-San Clemente now San Onofre, Cristianitos Road turn-off coming up. Fifty miles in 45 minutes, not bad.
Its not quite 6AM, sky is still dark purple and already there is a line of cars. Kids with boards under their arm riding bikes, skateboards and even an electric scooter. Start the long trek down the path to Trestles.
Half way down the hill the 7-11 coffee strikes ... Oh no, got to go, bad. Run behind some bushes, scaring a cottontail and squat, right on a prickle, ouch, then pee in my shoe, lovely! Cross under the railroad trestle by San Mateo Creek, couple of Egrets fly overhead, laughing.
'Uppers' looks pretty good, not too crowded, 3-4 foot, low tide with clean glassy conditions. I want to surf 'Lowers' so I plod the extra half a mile down the beach in the hard sand by the waters edge. Boy look at all those Pelicans out in the break, wait a minute, there not birds, there people, can't be ... yes, must be close to 30 guys out, and its only first light!
'Lowers' is a world class, perfect a-frame reef break. Sand and cobble-stone bottom with some seaweed. The peak is so clean and easy, its like a blank sheet of paper, you can draw anything on it.
It's waist to chest with occasional head high sets. Clean, paper thin, hollow lefts and rights. There are no long boards out there and the surfers are good, very good and very, very good! Guys taking off deep in the peak, come flying off the bottom into a snap 360, or blasting out of the tube into another 360 or a front-side air!
Paddle outside with an older guy and a board builder from Puerto Rico, who just got back from surfing 10 foot Tavarua with Sonny Garcia, he is over here looking for a computer cad shaping machine. My 7'2" Super Fish can out paddle their 5'6" Thrusters and actually snag some sick waves! The lefts were steeper with a following curl, but the rights were longer and had a nice inside wall. I surf my forehand better on my 9'2" so I was mostly going right. You take off right in the suck up in the middle of the peak, its a fast, steep hollow take off and you need lots of speed.
When everyone out there is so good you make sure you bring your 'A' game, don't mess up and work every wave, hard. About 8:30 AM the crowd thinned and with the tide push it got a little bigger, but still inconsistent. Even though each peak handles two guys, there is only one take off spot, so its a lot of paddle positioning work and the water was quite chilly, probably low 60's. I lasted until around 9:30 AM when the sun finally came out. Cold and dead beat limped up the hill (got a blister on my heal from sand in my sneaker) made good time back home ... took a shower and passed out ... to tired for breakfast!
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 02:30:59 AM
Modified: Friday August 22 2008 03:43:09 PM