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Session: What a surprise !

Written by yann

Wednesday August 8 2012 12:05:25 PM

Surf spot: Oniguchi, Japan

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 0:50 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0" Fish Maurice Cole

Weather and water temp: Air : 29°C. Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

I didn't expect any waves in this area of Kyushu but there was a big typhoon just 2 days before. I woke up at 5h30 and tried to go the the beach near the Kaimon Dake (a wonderful volcanoe looking like the Fujisan). I drove along the coast without being able to come close to the beach. On a big bridge, I discovered that there were some waves but no access ! I continued until I just turn left towards the sea... ANd It was rewarding : I just arrived at maybe the best sandbank around !

Beautiful 1.20m waves, no winds and few surfers. On the main peak, I took 3 waves and finished in a big shore break when my leash (2 years old in Japan) broke...argh !!!