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Session: FUCKIN HELL

Written by yer i wannasurf

Saturday February 10 2007 09:32:40 AM

Surf spot: Secret Harbour, Australia

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: plenty

Length of the surf session: 3 hours

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks

Description:

Secret Harbour is f*cking insane. If you aint a local i wood not recomend surfin there u shood try down or up the coast if u plannin a trip there dont go jus a bit further down to margot river far better way less crowds. I surfed secret harbour three mabey four times now and every single time ive had trouble. Like around last year some time in the middle of winter i we stopped over at one of ma mates house in secret harbour. In the mornin we checked the swell and it was pumpin it was absolutly of the hook so we got our stuff nd headed down to secret harbour. The sun was only just up and already there was a good 20 guys out there. Ma mate told me it was normal and that the crowd would proably tripple or double. I wasent surprised as the waves where really good had nice shape easy take off not very hollow but they had a decent barel sorta like scabs. As i was paddling out some dick let go of his board instead of duckdiving and the thing smashed in in my head. Without even checking 2 see if i was alright the c*nt paddled off. Cos i dont surf there that often i decided to sit on the sholder for a little while and just c what it was doing. The wave looked good enough so i paddled over to the take off point. I got my first wave and it was reel nice i pulled into a nic little barrel before shooting out and pulling a flawless little cutty followed by a big reo. As i was paddling back out i see my mate goin in for his wave its clearly his but some little shhit drops in on him when hes in the most critical part of the take off forcing him to go over the falls. Once we were both out the back he told me that was pretty common around here. We'd been out for about 20 mins and the crowds where getting bigger and bigger. I finally decided that this place didnt have any sense of share and care so if i wanted a wave id have to go and really fight for it. I was in the perfect position for a very clean 4 fter but when i was paddling the guy on my inside was too he didnt look like he was gonna stop either so i called the wave and he yelled back at me to fuck off. Now i wasent gonna put up with that shit. I made the drop and he was just nearly on his feet and i shoved him in the back into the water and continued to ride the wave in. When i got back ot the back he realy had a go at me for a while i thought there was gonna be a punch up but it turned out that he was all talk and no action sorta guy so i got away with it. We'd probly been surfing for about 2 hours now and both of us got som reel good waves. We'd had a fairly good luck with the crowds until ma mates next wave. He was already up and clearly it was his wave yet for some reason the guy on his outside grabbed his leggie and his leg and yanked him clear off. The guy then held him under the water until my mate bit a chunk outa his arm. We then went in as quickly as we could and went to surf tims thicket and pyrimids both where better.

Buddies:

Created: Saturday February 10 2007 09:59:22 AM

Modified: Saturday February 10 2007 09:59:22 AM

Comments (4) >>

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March 30, 2007, wanna said:

yer gets pretty localised man ive been surfing there for nearly 2 years and i still get cut off ! so i know how u feel

May 13, 2007, secrets grommet said:

yeah man i cant be bothered reading ur whole story coz its hell long but i respect what u said in the first lines "if ur not a local i recommend not surfing here" man ive been a local for 6 years and sadly secrets is turning into a puss over crowded (by kooks) community wave!!!

February 03, 2008, me said:

yeh i agree secrets is full of kooks even if u call a wave most people don't giv a fuck or they dont understand (coz there kooks) but on perfect conditions this place can go off, new yrs 08 i think was the best day of the yr so far with a 2.4 metre swell & easterly offshor winds all day it was awesome, it was even better bcoz the crowds didnt get there untiul like 9-10 oclock bcoz everyone was hungover, definatly a fun beach though if u cant be bothered goin anywhere better

February 13, 2008, local said:

look man learn how to spell ! most the locals arnt kooks and are more then happy to share the wave ! u get the odd old local that has a feww issues ! if u want a break that is empty with a classic barrel head 2 ks down the beach to singleton 1

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