|Find the best surf spots||
Wednesday September 15 2010 08:30:00 AM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 30
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'8
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
We started to drive at 7:15 and arrived in the water at 8:0. The day was beautiful: a classic september session.
Waves were powerful and a bit cloe out. BUT 50% were opening... 1.5, sometimes more, of hollow walls. SWOP wanted to take some photos with my fish. Gloups ! I didn't want to go with my too small board in these monsters....
I went with the fish. I got incredible waves: one was a hollow drop them a thick lip on 20 meter in front of me, backside...and I passed through !!! The board was great...
after 1h30 with the fish, I decide to take the 6'4" because I was exhausted. And the party was still on ! lefts and rights !
What a day !
Created: Wednesday September 15 2010 10:19:18 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:45:46 PM