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Friday January 22 2010 12:08:00 AM
Surf Trip: The Pineapple Express ( 01 February 2008 - 01 February 2008)
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: Fish
Weather and water temp: 52F/52F
8 AM after the big blow yesterday drove down to 54th Place on the Peninsular at Belmont Shore, Long Beach (inside the break wall and the back side of Seal Beach River Jetty). Cold offshore breeze with stormy chest to head high peaks breaking close to the shore in milky grey water.
54th Place LB 2010 Nice peak 54th Place LB 2005
The Professor came down to check it out but as he was still feeling a little "under the weather" gave it a pass. Suited up and paddled out, only a handful of guys out. Stiff shore break with a bite and a rip channel to get through. First wave was big set wave that broke like a mini pipe and got totally pounded.
54th Place LB 1997 54th Place LB 1997
Added to the fact that both the air and water temps were in the very low 50F's I
noticed that somehow tiny sharp pieces of gravel from the bottom had gotten into my booties and were trapped under my toes, so every time I popped up they felt like broken glass on my poor numb tootsies!
Only caught one decent set wave, took off got covered up then came off the lip into the washing machine, a boogie boarder got totally barreled on a late drop in. As the tide came in, the wind shifted to side shore and the swell also dropped so it was only a very small window.
Here is a utube video:
Created: Friday January 22 2010 12:24:41 AM
Modified: Friday January 22 2010 11:08:40 PM