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Saturday January 13 2007 07:38:07 PM
Surf Trip: The Endless Summer 63-73 ( 15 November 1963 - 07 June 2007)
Nb waves ridden: Several
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: Longboard
Fitzroy Beach is located just a couple of miles north of New Plymouth and is also home to the New Plymouth Surfriders Club. A little further north lies the Waiwakaiho River Mouth, Waiseys or Spot X, so called by Tony Florence. A classic example of what a good river bar break should look like. Takes any size swell ... better at half to full tide.Caught a super session in late December. Wind was offshore but not the typical howling 25 knot gale but a crisp 10 knots ... just enough to hold the lip in suspension. Peaks were running head high to a couple of feet overhead and running into a chest to shoulder high wall. Tip toed across the cobblestone creek ... fed by melting snow from Mt. Egmont to the ocean and paddled out.
The style at that time was to take off deep in the peak they trim forward in a "Paul Staunch" crouch as the lip came over your head across the bowl ... once you made it to the wall you could climb and drop until it dropped to waist high as it curved into the shallow river mouth bar then run up the nose and hang a heel, the wind holding up the wall.
On big days, way out to sea, the outside reef breaks in huge peaks reminding me of a cold water Sunset Beach, Hawaii without the massive rip current, however howling winds make it difficult to drop in and the surface chop will bounce you into next week!
Created: Saturday January 13 2007 07:43:28 PM
Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:20:35 PM