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Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM
Surf Trip: south shore ohau ( 17 April 2008 - 21 April 2008)
Nb waves ridden: 6
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 7
Weather and water temp: w
Wow! Sick wave...
Very tight local crew...3 hours and only 6 waves.
I was one of two non locals. The other guy got heckled pretty bad by a mob of Hawaiins. Funny though, the dude making the biggest stink may have been born in Hawaii but was definately of Japanese decent. Anybody ever taken notice of what the Japanese have done to Hawaii? One local dude that was catching a lot of waves dropped in on me blatenly. He definately wasn't a purebred either. Not much really different here. Good waves always brings out the ugly greediness in people.
Somehow the locs will make the unmakeable sections riding really close to the point of impact of the lip to the face and then just pull under the curtian and get shacked, so don't assume they ain't gonna make it! Awesome to watch how wired they have it.
This place has got the juice. Real mellow take off that just jacks at the last minute and throws out. Can't wait to surf it again.
Same little lineup crap at any localized spot. Just don't expect much and you will be rewarded.
I've worked up to this spot. 15 years water time or so and I was still low man on the totem pole. Be respectful and know your experience level.
By the way...Thank you to the true Hawaiian King! Biggest hawaiian dude in the water gratiously gave up my wave of the day. Aloha and Mahalo.
If you want to see what it looked like. Go to Hawaiianwatershots.com and check out the 4/18/08 shots of Bowls.
Created: Saturday April 26 2008 08:09:18 PM
Modified: Saturday April 26 2008 08:09:51 PM