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frustrated surfer! wrong board or wrong technique? - 2012/09/04 06:35 Hi guys first time post hope you can help.

Started surfing last year and love it! (girlfriend not so much)

Spent last summer learning developing on an 8'2"epoxy minimal. Fine surfing the whitewater then started surfing small unbroken waves, everything going well. Then a crack in the board got bigger and bigger and even tho fixed a few times board eventually snapped(board was 2nd hand a bit crap), hence needed a new board.

I know as a beginner its best to just get any board as it's going to take abuse and not spend alot of money but a hand shaped minimal was available at a ridiculous price and ended up buying:
fibreglass minimal 7'6" x 21 x 2 5/8 (beautiful board & figured slight drop in length would give room for improvement.)

Now having used it this summer i'm having a problem and can't put my finger on it. Basically when i've popped up i travel about 10 ft and board starts sinking! don't know if;

- too heavy for board, not enough float, i'm 5'10 & 85/90kg? (tho sits ok in water when paddling & sitting on it)
- bad technique? (tho i'm not having prob catching waves, too late popping up maybe?)
- feet position? (not wide enough, some people tell me i want my back foot over fin, some say i want to be centred on a minimal).

Strange thing is i was out the other week sat on the board out at sea chilling out and without noticing the swell really picked up, next thing a large wave approached(large for me anyway 4-5ft), i thought what the hell go for it. I could'nt believe it i nailed it completely, it was prob best wave i've ridden ever it was amazing. Which got me thinking the board only works on bigger waves but is that not going against the idea of minimal ie. able to use when surf is small.

So sorry for waffling on but it's driving me absolutely nuts. Can someone please tell me wtf is going on, you would'nt believe how much i would appreciate it.
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Re:frustrated surfer! wrong board or wrong technique? - 2012/09/05 06:49 Sounds like a performance board at 7'6" X 21" X 2.5". Not a board to learn on and not at your weight! (Now I have seen Sunny Garcia out at Trestles riding a thin 5'6" Thruster on shoulder high peaks and he must weigh 180 lbs, but he is an expert with tremendous upper body strength to paddle into a waves at full speed.)

On a Shortboard you surf in a static position from the tail with your back foot over the fins. (Shortboards work best on bigger steeper waves.) On a Longboard you must move up and down the board to turn, trim and cutback or noseride. I would go back to an 8'6" X 23" X 3" Funshape.

As to you going 10 feet and sinking, you must be going across the wave, not up and down the wave. You must have speed to trim across a wave and speed is gained by pumping up and down. Remember the fastest point on a wave is 62 degrees, stay high and fly.

(I learned on an 8'6" many years ago then went to 9'8" then to a 7'6" then to a 6'2" and now back to a 9'0".)
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Re:frustrated surfer! wrong board or wrong technique? - 2012/09/06 13:50 How many GF....
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Re:frustrated surfer! wrong board or wrong technique? - 2012/09/13 18:54 Hi, looking at your profile i guess you live at leeds/uk and surf either the irish sea or the north sea? If so, the board is way to small for your weight to catch and ride the windswell waves on this locations. When you look for another one - not only lenght+shape but thickness of the foam is an importend factor. Most funboards are only two fingers thick endig up sinking when waves are weak, i recommend a thickness of minimum 2.3/4" (7cm).
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Re:frustrated surfer! wrong board or wrong technique? - 2012/09/23 15:31 I agree w/ Doc & Herwig to a point.
When you are sitting on the 7 foot board, where does the water meet your body? If it is as high as your chest or over your waist, you are too heavy for the board. If the water is waist high or below, the board is floating you properly.
For learning, stick w/ a board over 8 feet. Also, you might be standing to far up towards the middle or nose, that can slow you down and stop you. On a 7-8 foot board, stay over your fin w/ one foot (your back foot). On a longer board you have more of an area for feet placement, move your feet around to find the "sweet spot" on your board. Take your time, when you feel you are getting good speed and can turn strongly, REMEMBER where your feet are at that moment and DUPLICATE that feet placement. And always be polite and make sure you are looking when you are standing up to not snake anyone, cut them off or run over anyone. Also, please wear a leash and respect the locals at whatever spot you go! Have fun!

Post edited by: L8DROP, at: 2012/09/24 03:00
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Re:frustrated surfer! wrong board or wrong technique? - 2012/12/04 22:53 From reading this it sounds like you have no problems with the popping up.. It's likely just to do with the positioning when you're standing on your board.. too far back and you'll stall the board, too far forward and you will either nosedive the board and do a nice cartwheel off the front or you'll have picked up too much speed for the wave and by the time the wave has caught up with you again you have run out of speed so the wave will just go passed you.

generally when you pop up you want your back foot just infront of the fin plugs and your lead foot around the middle of the board. keeping your weight towards the front.

It can also be to do with wave choice. If you have been used to catching any wave with the larger board it may be that you require just a bit more power in the wave although a 7'6 should still be able to pick up most waves

Hope this helps!

Post edited by: surferjb, at: 2012/12/04 21:53
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